Momo Chang | Civil Eats https://civileats.com/author/mchang/ Daily News and Commentary About the American Food System Thu, 20 Mar 2025 16:47:52 +0000 en-US hourly 1 A Cookbook From the Host of ‘Outdoor Chef Life’ Entices Us to Fish, Forage, and Feast https://civileats.com/2025/03/18/a-cookbook-from-the-host-of-outdoor-chef-life-entices-us-to-fish-forage-and-feast/ Tue, 18 Mar 2025 09:00:09 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=62035 This was Kondo’s first YouTube video, “Camping + Coastal Foraging for Uni,” uploaded in May 2018. It’s hard to know whether Kondo foresaw what other successes awaited him and his channel, “Outdoor Chef Life.” Today, though, the former sushi chef, 33, has guided millions of viewers on his journeys, whether he’s throwing a fishing line […]

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In a Pacific tidepool in Northern California, Taku Kondo squats down, seawater sloshing around his ankles, and examines the rocks below the water. Kondo, a fisherman and forager, uses a knife to detach a purple sea urchin from a large rock. He cuts open the spiky shell, splits the urchin, and discovers a perfect sliver of orange roe, or uni—worth at least $80 a pound. “Let’s try it,” he says to the camera, then slurps up the roe. A smile spreads across his face. Success.

This was Kondo’s first YouTube video, “Camping + Coastal Foraging for Uni,” uploaded in May 2018. It’s hard to know whether Kondo foresaw what other successes awaited him and his channel, “Outdoor Chef Life.”

“When you’re off the grid, especially camping and you have no reception, you’re focused on who you’re with and what you are doing—making food or fishing, or focused on stoking the fire.”

Today, though, the former sushi chef, 33, has guided millions of viewers on his journeys, whether he’s throwing a fishing line from a rocky coast or pedaling a hands-free kayak to catch king salmon. He’s clearly built a business from what he loves. In most of his videos, Kondo spends nearly a whole day catching seafood—digging for clams, foraging sea urchins, catching crabs—then setting up an outdoor kitchen. There, he’ll create meals like crab ramen or fried-fish sandwiches, dressed with pickles made from foraged kelp.

Now he’s releasing a cookbook, Coastal Harvest, which dives even deeper. Coastal Harvest,  to be published March 25, is both a culmination of his years of YouTube videos and a beautifully photographed and illustrated cookbook, with detailed instructions for sushi, sashimi, whole-fish cooking, and more. The book starts with the basics—how to fillet fish, knife skills, and how to store fresh fish—and then takes the reader through the wild foods Kondo loves: fish, shellfish, wild mushrooms, and coastal plants. Most of the photographs were taken by his partner, Jocelyn Gonzalez, a forager and angler herself.

There’s no shortage of fishing YouTubers, but, as a chef, Kondo stands out. He spent a few years working his way up in restaurants in San Francisco, progressing from line cook to sushi chef at a popular omakase restaurant, before he left that life to become a full-time fisherman, forager, and YouTuber. In Coastal Harvest, Kondo demonstrates a deep knowledge of Asian cooking through recipes that work in the wild as well as at home.

In a conversation with Civil Eats, Kondo discussed how Japanese culture has shaped his views on food, the best ways to eat seafood, and the importance of local ingredients.

A fisherman fillets a whole salmon

Photo credit: Jocelyn Gonzalez

You seem to really like being in nature. Why is that so important to you?

I was born in Osaka. Growing up there, we went camping with my dad, usually in the summertime, and we would go fishing. That was our thing.

We did a lot of largemouth bass fishing, and we also fished off the piers for baitfish like mackerel and sardines. Just like a regular kid, I played video games too, but it wasn’t a huge part of my life. I always would rather be outside doing something else.

When you’re off the grid, especially camping and you have no reception, you’re focused on who you’re with and what you are doing—making food or fishing, or focused on stoking the fire. It’s really important for us, especially nowadays, to get away from some of the outside noise that we’re facing.

The former sushi chef has guided millions of viewers on his journeys, whether he’s throwing a fishing line from a rocky coast or pedaling a hands-free kayak to catch king salmon.

What made you want to become a sushi chef?

I always enjoyed cooking, but when I moved to San Francisco for college, I wanted to have good food but couldn’t afford to eat at restaurants. So I was cooking for myself pretty much every single meal. And I thought I was getting good at knife skills.

Sushi chefs are so skilled with the knife; it’s so surgical and precise. I wanted to see if I was up to the level of a professional. I started working at a Japanese restaurant just to see if I could hang with the pros.

I was quickly humbled. On my first day, they asked me to bring in my own knives, and I [brought] my $3 Daiso knife with a little plastic handle. That’s what I used at home. I thought, I can cut pretty well with this! They let me borrow their knives. From there, the learning began.

How did you end up making YouTube videos?

In college, I didn’t have a TV. All I had was a laptop. So I just watched YouTube videos and a lot of fishing content. But a lot of the cooking was just an afterthought.

That’s when I decided, you know what, maybe people will like videos if you do the fishing and catching, but also put more attention to detail on the cooking. That’s what I had been doing anyway when I went camping. So the first half of the videos would be the catching of the fish or sea urchin or clams or mussels. And then the second half would be focused on cooking, and at a much higher level than anybody else was doing it.

I was helping a friend open an omakase sushi restaurant in San Francisco when I started making YouTube videos. When I had, like, 20 subscribers, I told my boss, ‘Alright, boss, 200,000 subscribers and I’m out of here.’ And he was like, ‘OK, sure, buddy, good luck.’ About a year and a half later, I was up to 160,000 subscribers.

I loved working at the restaurant as a sushi chef; there were just three chefs. We were interacting with the customers, and that’s where I refined my skills. What was missing for me: Even though I loved cooking, I loved being outdoors, too. In that restaurant environment, you’re always inside. I wanted to incorporate the outdoors into my life a bit more.

I decided to quit the sushi restaurant in 2019 and go full time making YouTube videos, and traveled from Hawaii to Japan to Thailand. When we got back, that’s when COVID hit and we did a lot of local stuff. In 2021, I built out my own sprinter van and traveled to Alaska in the van. We had an amazing few months in Alaska.

Whats one thing people have said to you about your videos that stands out?

One of the things they say is they get to watch it with their significant others. So the guy’s gonna be like, “Oh, yeah, this is the only fishing channel my wife or my girlfriend would watch with me, because they know there’s some food in there and some good cooking.” I always thought that was kind of funny. So I get a lot of couples involved in watching the videos.

A man blows on a campfire while a woman is drying seaweed over it

Photo credit: Jocelyn Gonzalez

Your partner, Jocelyn, who’s in a lot of your videos, is sometimes the one who catches the fish, even when youve been skunked.

She catches big fish. She has the right energy for the fish. They can sense it, you know?

In your cookbook, you focus mostly on California coastal fishing. What can readers in other parts of the country learn from it?

A lot of the recipes are interchangeable with different types of fish and shellfish. So it’s applicable to anybody that eats seafood.

Whats the overall philosophy behind your recipes and the way you catch and cook?

One of the more important philosophies that I like to highlight is using all the different parts of the fish. There’s a lot that usually goes to waste, even with people who catch their own fish. A lot of the time, you’re only using the fillet. I see it like chicken, when you’re just using the breast and leaving everything else. A fish is kind of similar. You have the head, which has a ton of meat, the collars, which still have meat, and you have the entire skeleton, which has a ton of flavor. Boil it down to make a little fish stock, just like making a chicken stock.

I can make miso soup just by making a fish stock, straining it, incorporating dashi, and mixing in some miso paste. It’s a pretty simple thing to make, and you can add in mushrooms, tofu, or seaweed. You get multiple meals out of [a whole fish].

I have recipes in the cookbook where I use tuna stomach to make menudo. There’s a recipe using fish head to make birria tacos. Those are some of the more delicious pieces. Once you get used to cooking them, it’s a no brainer. Why would you ever waste that or throw it away? 

a black and white gyotaku ink print of floating seaweeds, a starfish, urchins, and shellfish with the words

Interspersed throughout the cookbook are gyotaku prints by Dwight Hwang. Gyotaku are a traditional Japanese way of documenting a harvested food (traditionally fish) by inking it and pressing paper onto its surface.

Whats your go-to way of cooking a whole fish?

My go-to is not cooking it, since I’m a sushi chef (laughs).

If it’s a fish that’s suitable for sashimi, I’ll portion off [the fillet]. And then with the rest of [the fish], I’ll take the collars off. Depending on how many fish I have, I smoke or grill them. It’s a really delicious way to add a bit of smokiness and an easy way to cook them. [The fish] just falls off the bone.

You talk a lot about sustainability, local food, and knowing as much as we can where food comes from. What does the ideal future of food look like to you?

That’s it: local ingredients. It’s the most inspiring, as well. You let the seasons dictate what you cook, rather than your cravings. Going with the seasons, getting to enjoy what is available at the moment in the area—ideally, that’s what we’d do.

Catch the fish and sell it locally. It’s not the way the world works, but ideally catch it and sell it locally. Right now, a lot of the fish being caught in Alaska and even here in California  gets shipped to Asia, processed, and shipped back here to sell as frozen fillets. It’s a lot of traveling that our food is doing, and that’s not the most eco-friendly way of getting seafood.

In the world we live in today, it’s almost impossible to trace where your seafood comes from, or even your meat. Gathering your own food connects you to the environment and makes you realize that these are important parts of our ecosystem that need to be taken care of. Otherwise, if we’re just wasting all these fish for nothing, they’re going to be gone sooner rather than later. It makes you understand the preservation of it and appreciate the bounty that we have in the moment—and to hopefully keep that same bounty as we move into the future.

This interview has been edited for length and clarity.

RECIPE: Okonomiyaki from Catch and Cook

Excerpted from Coastal Harvest and reprinted by permission of DK, a division of Penguin Random House LLC. Copyright © 2025 by Taku Kondo.

serves 4-6 | prep 10 minutes | cook 20 minutes

a hand holds a wooden tray with a plate of Japanese savory pancake, okonomiyaki, with kewpie mayonaisse and a brown sauce zigzagged on top of the pancake and small squid pieces throughout

“It’s always a go-to for me, and it’s always been a go-to for my family,” says Taku Kondo of okonomiyaki, a traditional Japanese dish. (Photo credit: Jocelyn Gonzalez)

Okonimiyaki is a savory Japanese pancake that’s famous as street food in Osaka, which is where I was born and spent the first half of my childhood. I make this dish a lot for my friends, and it’s always a hit. Okonomi translates to “as you like,” meaning there are infinite ways to customize it to your preference. I’m giving you my baseline recipe but don’t be afraid to add your own flavors and ingredients. It’s a great dish to clean out the fridge and use up any ingredients that need to go.

The traditional okonomiyaki sauce, called okonomi, is easy to make at home, but a store-bought version, made by Otafuku, can be found at most Asian markets. Find hondashi power (for flavorful instant dashi broth) at Asian markets as well.

For the okonomi sauce

  • 1 tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
  • ½ cup ketchup
  • ½ cup oyster sauce

For the okonomiyaki

  • 1 lb. green cabbage, finely chopped (or use ½ lb. each of green and red cabbage)
  • 2 bunches green onion, thinly sliced
  • 1¼ cups all-purpose flour
  • 2 tbsp. cornstarch
  • ½ tbsp. hondashi powder
  • 4 eggs
  • 2 tsp. salt
  • 2 lb. raw squid, cleaned and cut into pieces (or substitute sliced pork, beef, bacon, or thinly sliced mushrooms)

Kewpie mayo or regular mayo, to serve
Katsuobushi (bonito flakes), to serve

  1. To make the sauce, in a medium bowl, combine the Worcestershire sauce, ketchup, and oyster sauce. Mix well to combine, then set aside until ready to serve.
  2. In a large bowl, combine the cabbage, green onions, flour, cornstarch, hondashi, eggs, salt, and 2 cups cold water. Mix well so that the consistency is like pancake batter.
  3. Heat a skillet over medium heat. When hot, ladle in the batter to create a pancake roughly 6 inches in diameter. Place several pieces of raw squid on top. Cook for 8 minutes on one side, then flip it over and cook for another 6 to 8 minutes with the squid fully touching the hot skillet. To check if the okonomiyaki is cooked, push down on it occasionally; if you hear more of a sizzle, the pancake is still raw. When fully cooked, flip the okonomiyaki onto a plate. Repeat with the rest of the batter (or use a second skillet to cook both pancakes at the same time).
  4. To serve, top each pancake with drizzles of the okonomi sauce and Kewpie mayo, plus  a sprinkling of katsuobushi.

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]]> The High Cost of Groceries: Experts Weigh In https://civileats.com/2024/09/25/the-high-cost-of-groceries-experts-weigh-in/ Wed, 25 Sep 2024 09:00:17 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=57807 Who Spoke: Civil Eats’ Senior Staff Reporter and Contributing Editor Lisa Held moderated our conversation with expert panelists David Ortega, a professor and the Noel W. Stuckman Chair in Food Economics and Policy at Michigan State University; and Lindsay Owens, an economic sociologist and the executive director of the Groundwork Collaborative. What’s at Stake Food […]

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Last Tuesday, Civil Eats held a virtual salon focusing on a hotly debated topic: Food prices and the 2024 election.

Who Spoke: Civil Eats’ Senior Staff Reporter and Contributing Editor Lisa Held moderated our conversation with expert panelists David Ortega, a professor and the Noel W. Stuckman Chair in Food Economics and Policy at Michigan State University; and Lindsay Owens, an economic sociologist and the executive director of the Groundwork Collaborative.

What’s at Stake

  • Food prices are up about 25 percent since 2020.
  • There’s been a sharp rise in food insecurity. The latest U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) data shows:
    • 13.5 percent (18 million) of U.S. households were food insecure at some time during 2023.
    • That’s up from 12.8 percent (17 million) just the year before.

The full talk: Become a member today to access the full recording and invitations to future salons—along with other benefits that come with being a Civil Eats member.

What’s Driving High Food Prices?

  • Dwindling supply plus rising demand, said Ortega.
  • Several factors caused supplies to sink.
    • During the pandemic, people rushed into stores and cleaned out the shelves, throwing suppliers into a tailspin. Then, in 2022, Russia invaded Ukraine, leading to a global shortage of wheat, vegetable oils, and other grains. There were also export restrictions on staples such as palm oil, leading to price increases.
    • On top of this, significant drought in the U.S. affected beef prices, and a multiyear avian flu impacted commercial poultry and eggs.
  • All of these shortages caused prices to spike.

Meanwhile, What Caused Demand to Rise?

  • Fiscal stimulus payments made during the pandemic added more money to the economy. And, at the same time, households accumulated more savings because they weren’t traveling or going on vacations.
    • Now people are spending, but there’s not as much to buy—so the demand drives up prices.

Price Gouging Also Factors Into High Prices

  • Price gouging is when suppliers raise prices by 10 percent to 25 percent or more during periods of crises such as a hurricane, power outage, and other triggers in the market.
    • Nearly 40 states have laws banning price gouging, but there’s no law at the federal level.
    • Owens supports a federal ban on price gouging. “I think it’s one more tool that the federal government would have to prevent against this kind of extractive disaster capitalism,” she said. Ortega worried the law could have unintended consequences.
  • Price fixing through corporate consolidation is also an issue, with companies joining up with other companies to set a price.
    • Owens said, “I like to use a true crime metaphor: It requires means, motive, and opportunity to commit the perfect crime. The motive is pretty clear . . . companies are out to make a buck. The means is the power and size that these companies have been amassing for decades. But what changes is you finally have that opportunity, under the cover of inflation, to push harder, faster, higher, and longer for pricing. And that’s what we’ve been seeing in the grocery sector.”

The Overall Takeaway

Presidents actually have little power to affect food prices in the short run. There’s a need to address the root causes of high prices, and there are ways our country can do this:

  • Take action to make sure our food system is more resilient to future shocks, including those caused by climate, by taking steps like planting drought-resistant crop varieties.
  • Strengthen the social safety net to make sure food is more affordable for everyone; support the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP).
  • Build resilience in the supply chain–such as buffer stocks for grain—that would help prepare for the next disruption or emergency.
  • Antitrust policy is a critical tool to tackle consolidation over the long term. “In a world in which we have increased competition, we have more players in the space, and that will have good impacts on pricing,” Owens said.

Reading and More

  • “Under Trump, consolidated corporations generally benefited. The Trump administration dissolved the USDA agency tasked with regulating anti-competitive practices in the livestock, poultry, meat, grain, and oilseed industries. . . . The Biden administration made some attempts to rein in consolidation. In 2022, for example, President Joe Biden signed an executive order aimed at creating more competitive practices, especially in meat and poultry supply chains. Harris’s plans to go after “price gouging” fall in line with these initiatives.” — from Can Lawmakers Really Tackle High Food Prices? by Nick Bowlin
  • Sign up here for Civil Eats’ weekly newsletter–and join thousands of others who want to keep the pulse on food systems reporting and analysis.
  • Civil Eats recently removed our paywall—which means our reporting is free now to everyone, everywhere, for at least the next year. To keep the stories free, we need your support. Become a Civil Eats member to support our work, and to stay in the loop about future virtual salons.

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