A food justice advocate who grew up near this mountainous region explains how Black communities here struggle to access healthy food, and lays out ways to build local food systems that reach everyone.
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A food justice advocate who grew up near this mountainous region explains how Black communities here struggle to access healthy food, and lays out ways to build local food systems that reach everyone.
November 19, 2024
Author Mya Price (left) with Amber Burns-Jones, a community advocate in Kentucky, who helps Kentucky residents learn about the power of food and community. (Photo courtesy of Mya Price)
Growing up in Lexington, Kentucky, I spent countless hours listening to my grandmother’s stories. She often spoke of her life in Monticello, a small town in Wayne County, deep in Appalachia. Despite the beauty of the surrounding farmland, food was often scarce. With few grocery stores, long distances between places, and unreliable transportation, my grandmother frequently relied on canned and packaged foods. Fresh produce was a rare luxury, and when it was available, it was often too expensive. The anxiety of not knowing where her next meal might come from haunted her, and her stories of hunger left a lasting impact on me.
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Appalachia, a mountainous region spanning 13 states in the eastern United States, stretches from southern New York to northern Mississippi and is often associated with rural poverty, rugged landscapes, and rich cultural traditions. In Kentucky, it encompasses the state’s easternmost counties, including Wayne, one of the most economically distressed areas in the nation, where residents struggle with limited access to healthcare, education, and food.
Map of Appalachia. (Image courtesy of the Appalachian Regional Commission)
Despite a slow decline in food insecurity from 2010 to 2020, the rate in Appalachia is still 13 percent, which remains above the national average of 11.5 percent. In the central part of the region, the issue is especially persistent, with 17.5 percent of residents sometimes lacking access to enough food for an active, healthy lifestyle. With nearly 23 percent of Black individuals in the U.S. experiencing food insecurity, a rate almost 2.5 times higher than that of white individuals, the lack of food access especially impacts Black residents of Appalachia.
Access to grocery stores varies significantly between urban and rural areas in Appalachia. In urban Appalachian counties, residents typically have multiple grocery stores within a short distance, facilitating easier access to a variety of food options. Conversely, in rural Appalachian counties, the number of grocery stores per capita is notably lower. A study by the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) Economic Research Service found that in rural non-metropolitan counties, the median number of grocery stores per capita decreased by 40 percent between 1990 and 2015, highlighting a significant decline in food retail options over time.
This disparity means that rural residents often travel considerable distances to reach the nearest grocery store, a challenge exacerbated by limited transportation options and rugged terrain. As a result, many rely on convenience stores or gas stations, which typically offer fewer healthy food choices at higher prices, contributing to poorer diets and increased health risks.
“The Thompsons often had to prioritize selling their crops to earn enough to feed themselves, which sometimes led to gaps in their own diet.”
For Black residents, these physical challenges are compounded by a history of systemic racial and economic inequities. For generations, exclusionary practices like redlining, discriminatory agricultural lending, and heirs’ property laws have undermined economic opportunities for Black residents. These policies have restricted access to land ownership and farming resources, perpetuating cycles of poverty and food insecurity.
The harsh realities I was exposed to through my grandmother stayed with me as I got older—and were a driving force behind my decision to pursue a career in combatting food insecurity on a national level. At the outset of my career, I pursued a master’s degree in community and leadership development at the University of Kentucky, with a focus on hunger disparities.
During the field research I conducted between 2015 and 2017, I visited hollers (small mountain valleys) in the state’s Appalachian region to speak with residents about the challenges they faced in accessing food. On one of these trips to eastern Kentucky, I met Mr. and Mrs. Thompson (whose names I changed to protect their identities), a Black couple in their 60s.
For more than 30 years, the Thompsons had farmed on 20 acres, growing tomatoes, green beans, and squash—basic crops meant to provide food for themselves and the local community. But with the nearest market 40 miles away, it was nearly impossible to sell their produce there consistently. And without cold storage facilities, much of their harvest spoiled before it could even leave the farm. The Thompsons often had to prioritize selling their crops to earn enough to feed themselves, which sometimes led to gaps in their own diet.
Sitting with them over a meal, I listened as they described the challenges they faced—including having to decide whether to pay for groceries or heat their home and witnessing children in their community going to bed hungry. Their resilience was palpable, but so was the ongoing struggle, and hearing them describe so many of the same issues my grandmother faced, I became convinced of the need for focused and effective interventions.
Talking with the Thompsons and others like them, I came to realize the extent to which food insecurity in Black Appalachian communities has been overlooked by policymakers and organizations at all levels.
As the head of the Food Security Equity Impact Fund at Feeding America, a network of more than 200 food banks across the U.S., from 2022 to 2024, I managed $30 million in grant funding aimed at combating food insecurity. I channeled resources both into increasing food access and empowering communities to build their own sustainable sources of food production—funding sustainable agricultural initiatives by Black and Indigenous farmers, for example.
As a result of this work, partnerships with more than 35 food banks across the nation supported more than 75 Black, Indigenous, People of Color (BIPOC) communities. These efforts and others enabled farmers to purchase land, increased residents’ access to fresh nutritious produce, and empowered individuals to take on community leadership roles.
Now, as president of the health-equity-focused Root Cause Coalition and assistant professor with the Global Food Institute at George Washington University, my work includes partnering with community organizations, supporting food policy councils, and driving advocacy efforts for stronger federal policies that bolster food access.
“Rural residents often travel considerable distances to reach the nearest grocery store, a challenge exacerbated by limited transportation options and rugged terrain.”
Throughout my career, I’ve encountered arguments that suggest the free market can solve food insecurity through competition and innovation. While the market certainly has a role to play, my experiences have shown me it’s not enough.
Food insecurity is a complex, deeply rooted issue that requires a holistic approach. It needs targeted, sustained investment to tackle both racial and regional disparities. We need to focus both on food production and distribution, addressing both immediate needs and long-term solutions. And we need community-driven solutions informed by those most affected, as well as increased government intervention to ensure equitable resource dispensation. It is only through this integrated approach that we can create a food system where nutritious food is accessible to all, and where every individual has the opportunity to thrive.
With Donald Trump preparing to assume power, vulnerable populations may encounter even greater challenges than before, and addressing food insecurity among Black communities in rural Appalachia is more essential now than ever.
Together, here is what local, state, and federal individuals and organizations can do have an impact on the problem:
Support Rural Sustainable Agriculture Initiatives
To empower Black farmers and promote sustainable agriculture that can feed surrounding communities, we must provide both financial resources and technical support tailored to the farmers’ unique needs. Programs like Accelerating Appalachia’s “Building Soil Building Equity” (BSBE) program, which launched in 2023 with a $20 million grant from the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), have begun laying the groundwork.
This initiative focuses on supporting regenerative agriculture techniques that enhance soil health and create more resilient local food systems. Expanding models like BSBE across Appalachia is critical. This includes increasing access to grants, low-interest loans, and technical assistance for Black farmers who often face challenges accessing traditional funding. Additionally, integrating cold storage and processing facilities closer to farms can help prevent crop spoilage and enable farmers to distribute fresh produce to markets more effectively, ensuring both economic stability and greater food access.
Expand Food Assistance Programs
Establishing more community food pantries, mobile markets, and farmer’s markets in rural Appalachian counties can provide immediate relief to households experiencing food insecurity. These initiatives should prioritize fresh produce from local farmers, including Black farmers, to both support the local economy and increase access to nutritious food.
At the national level, increased funding for Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP) and the Special Supplemental Nutrition Program for Women, Infants, and Children (WIC) is essential. Benefits should be adjusted for inflation, and expanded eligibility should be considered for rural households that may not meet traditional income thresholds but still struggle with food access. Implementing SNAP incentives like “Double Up Food Bucks,” which adds matching SNAP dollars for purchases of fresh produce, can encourage healthier eating while supporting local agriculture.
Foster Community-Based Solutions
Creating Rural Food Policy Councils (FPCs) in Appalachia can facilitate localized solutions that address specific barriers to food access, such as food deserts, limited nutrition education, and food waste. These councils can include diverse stakeholders, including Black farmers, community leaders, health professionals, and local government representatives to create policies that reflect the needs of the community. They can also develop comprehensive food action plans that incorporate equitable land use, farm-to-school programs, and food recovery initiatives that redirect surplus food to those in need.
The urgency of these initiatives has only intensified following the devastation caused by Hurricane Helene. The storm not only damaged infrastructure and disrupted supply chains but also worsened food insecurity in affected areas, deepening the need for resilient, community-driven support systems.
Supporting grassroots food-justice movements, which advocate for systemic changes in food access and land equity, is equally crucial. This includes funding for community-driven projects, leadership training, and capacity building to ensure these movements can sustain their efforts and bring about long-term change.
Confronting food insecurity in Appalachia is not just a matter of policy; it’s a matter of justice. Imagine the difference it could make for people like my grandmother, who once faced anxiety over each meal, or for the Thompsons, whose fresh produce often spoils due to limited market access. With targeted investments in local agriculture, expanded food assistance, and community-driven solutions, we can shift from short-term fixes to long-lasting change. We can ensure that families in Wayne County and other parts of Appalachia no longer have to choose between selling crops to make ends meet or having enough to eat themselves.
Crucial programs like SNAP and agricultural assistance—which have been lifelines for those in rural and underserved communities, helping them to survive in an already challenging landscape—face potential cuts under the new administration. Reducing or removing these resources would deepen existing disparities, making it even harder for families to achieve basic food security.
True food justice means that policies, resources, and support reach those who need them most, regardless of political winds. With strategic, inclusive efforts, we can create a food system that uplifts all people, ensuring that Appalachia’s families, farms, and communities are no longer left behind but are instead at the forefront of our nation’s progress.
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